El sushi en una economía de oferta: mercancía, mercado y la ciudad global
Palabras clave:
Tokio, mercados, cultura alimentaria, globalizaciónResumen
La antropología urbana ha sido desafiada y transformada de manera simultánea debido al efecto desterritorializador que, según algunas teorías, las fuerzas de la globalización —definida de diversas formas en términos económicos, políticos, sociales y culturales— han ocasionado en muchas tendencias y procesos sociales antes considerados característicos de las zonas urbanas. Ante un aparentemente desplazado1 paisaje urbano de flujos globales de capital, comercio, mercancía y cultura, este artículo estudia la reconfiguración de las relaciones, espacial y temporalmente dispersas, entre el trabajo, las mercancías y la influencia cultural en el comercio internacional de mariscos, cuyo centro está ubicado en el mercado de productos marinos de Tsukiji, en Tokio. También analiza la particularidad local tanto del mercado como del lugar mismo en un entorno urbano globalizado.
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Referencias bibliográficas
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—. 1999. “La Maroma, or Chile, Credit, and Chance: An Ethnographic Case of Global Finance and Middlemen Entrepreneurs”. Human Organization 57 (1): 63-73.
—. 2001. “Beyond the Border: Nation-State Encroachment, Nafta, and Offshore Control in the U. S.-Mexican Mango Industry”. Human Organization 60 (2):
121-128.
Appadurai, Arjun, ed. 1986. The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
—. 1990. “Disjuncture and Difference in the Global Cultural Economy”. Public Culture 2 (2): 1-24.
—. 1991. La vida social de las cosas. Perspectivas culturales de las mercancías. México D. F.: Grijalbo.
Bassett, Bernice Claire. 1929. “Entertaining in Japanese Style”. The Ladies’ Home Journal, 1.o de septiembre: 118, 137.
Befu, Harumi. S. f. “Globalization of Japan: Its Implication for the Globalization Model”. Kyoto Bunkyo University. Manuscrito inédito.
Bestor, Theodore C. 1995. What Shape’s Your Seafood In? Food Culture and Trade at the Tsukiji Market. American Seafood Institute Report, septiembre.
—. 1997. “Visible Hands: Auctions and Institutional Integration in the Tsukiji Wholesale Fish Market, Tokyo”. En Networks, Markets, and the Pacific Rim:
Studies in Strategy, editado por Mark Fruin, 154-180. Nueva York: Oxford University Press.
—. 1998. “Making Things Clique: Cartels, Coalitions, and Institutional Structure in the Tsukiji Wholesale Seafood Market”. En Networks, Markets, and the
Pacific Rim: Studies in Strategy, editado por Mark Fruin, 154-180. Nueva York: Oxford University Press.
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—. 1999b. “Constructing Sushi: Food Culture, Trade, and Commodification in a Japanese Market”. En Lives in Motion, editado por Susan O. Long, 151-190.
Ithaca, NY: Cornell East Asia Series.
—. 2000. “How Sushi Went Global”. Foreign Policy, noviembre-diciembre: 53-64.
—. S. f. a. “Global Sushi: Commodity, Environment, and Consumption in the Transnational Tuna Trade”. Manuscrito en preparación.
—. S. f. b. “Markets: Anthropological Perspectives”. En International Encyclopedia of the Social and Behavioral Sciences. Londres: Elsevier Science. En
prensa.
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Brannen, Mary Yoko. 1992. “‘Bwana Mickey’: Constructing Cultural Consumption at Tokyo Disneyland”. En Re-Made in Japan: Everyday Life and Consumer Taste in a Changing Society, editado por Joseph Tobin, 216-234. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press.
Clark, Gracia. 1994. Onions Are my Husband. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.
Clifford, James. 1997. Routes: Travels and Translation in the Late Twentieth Century. Cambridge: Harvard University Press.
Cohen, Abner. 1969. Custom and Politics in Urban Africa. Berkeley: University of California Press.
Cronon, William. 1991. Nature’s Metropolis: Chicago and the Great West. Nueva York: Norton.
Dannhaeuser, Norbert. 1989. “Marketing in Developing Urban Areas”. En Economic Anthropology, editado por Stuart Plattner, 222-252. Stanford, CA:
Stanford University Press.
Geertz, Clifford. 1979. “Suq: The Bazaar Economy of Sefrou”. En Meaning and Order in Moroccan Society, editado por Clifford Geertz, Hildred Geertz y
Lawrence Rosen, 123-314. Nueva York: Cambridge University Press.
Gereffi, Gary y Miguel Korzeniewicz, eds. 1994. Commodity Chains and Global Capitalism. Westport, CT: Praeger.
Goldfrank, Walter L. 1994. “Fresh Demand: The Consumption of Chilean Produce in the United States”. En Commodity Chains and Global Capitalism, editado por Gary Gereffi y Miguel Korzeniewicz, 267-279. Westport, CT: Praeger.
Goody, Jack. 1982. Cooking, Cuisine and Class: A Study in Comparative Sociology. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
Hannerz, Ulf. 1980. Exploring the City. Nueva York: Columbia University Press.
—. 1996a. “The Cultural Role of World Cities”. En Transnational Connections, 127-139. Londres; Nueva York: Routledge.
—. 1996b. Transnational Connections. Londres; Nueva York: Routledge.
Hansen, Karen Tranberg y Carter A. Roeber, eds. 1999. “Rationale, Romance, and Third World Cities”. Número especial: City and Society 11 (1-2).
Hendry, Joy. 1990. “Humidity, Hygiene, or Ritual Care: Some Thoughts on Wrapping as a Social Phenomenon”. En Unwrapping Japan, editado por Eyal Ben-
Ari, Brian Moeran y James Valentine, 18-35. Manchester: Manchester University Press.
Honda, Yukiko. 1997. Sushi Neta Zukan (The Illustrated Book of Sushi Toppings). Tokio: Shogakkan.
Hopgood, James F. 1998. “Another Japanese Version: An American Actor in Japanese Hands”. En The Social Construction of Race and Ethnicity in the United
States, editado por Joan Ferrante y Prince Brown, Jr., 470-477. Nueva York: Longman.
Japón. 1988-2000. Japan Statistical Yearbook. Tokio: Office of the Prime Minister.
Kemf, Elizabeth, Michael Sutton y Alison Wilson. 1996. Wanted Alive: Marine Fishes in the Wild. Gland: WWF.
Kopytoff, Igor. 1986. “The Cultural Biography of Things: Commoditization as Process”. En The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective,
editado por Arjun Appadurai, 64-91. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
LaFeber, Walter. 1999. Michael Jordan and the New Global Capitalism. Nueva York: Norton.
Leslie, Deborah y Suzanne Reimer. 1999. “Spatializing Commodity Chains”. Progress in Human Geography 23 (3): 401-420.
Marcus, George E. 1998. Ethnography through Thick and Thin. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press.
Mazzarella, William. 1999. “Mobile on the Spot: Negotiating ‘the Local’ in Contemporary Indian Advertising”. Documento presentado en el Departamento de Antropología, Cambridge, MA, Harvard University, noviembre.
Mintz, Sidney. 1985. Sweetness and Power: The Place of Sugar in Modern History. Nueva York: Viking Penguin.
—. 1997. “Swallowing Modernity”. En Golden Arches East: McDonald’s in East Asia, editado por James L. Watson, 183-200. Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press.
National Research Council. 1994. An Assessment of Atlantic Bluefin Tuna. Washington D. C.: National Academy Press.
Ohnuki-Tierney, Emiko. 1990. “The Ambivalent Self of the Contemporary Japanese”. Cultural Anthropology 5 (2): 197-216.
—. 1997. “McDonald’s in Japan: Changing Manners and Etiquette”. En Golden Arches East: McDonald’s in East Asia, editado por James L. Watson, 161-182.
Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press.
Õmae, Kinjiro y Yuzuru Tachibana. 1981. The Book of Sushi. Tokio; Nueva York: Kodansha International.
Peterson, Susan B. 1973. “Decisions in a Market: A Study of the Honolulu Fish Auction”. Disertación de doctorado, University of Hawaii, Honolulu.
Plattner, Stuart, ed. 1985. Markets and Marketing. Monographs in Economic Anthropology 4. Lanham, MD: Society for Economic Anthropology.
—. 1989. Economic Anthropology. Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press.
Rakugo, Shin’ichi. 1990. “Sushidane Saijiki (Annual Chronicle of Sushi Toppings)”. Taiyo: Tokushu—ushi Dokuhon (Número especial de Taiyo: The Sushi Reader) 343: 38-51.
Raz, Aviad E. 1999. “Riding the Black Ship: Japan and Tokyo Disneyland”. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Asia Center.
Redfield, Robert y Milton Singer. 1954. “The Cultural Role of Cities”. Economic Development and Cultural Change 3 (octubre): 53-77.
Roseberry, William. 1996. “The Rise of Yuppie Coffees and the Reimagination of Class in the United States”. American Anthropologist 98 (4): 762-775.
Safina, Carl. 1993. “Bluefin Tuna in the West Atlantic: Negligent Management and the Making of an Endangered Species”. Conservation Biology 7 (2): 229-234.
—. 1995. “The World’s Imperiled Fish”. Scientific American 273 (5): 30-37.
Skinner, G. William. 1964. “Marketing and Social Structure in Rural China, Part I”. Journal of Asian Studies 24 (1): 3-43.
—. 1965. “Marketing and Social Structure in Rural China, Part II”. Journal of Asian Studies 24 (2): 195-228.
—, ed. 1974. The City in Late Imperial China. Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press.
Smith, Robert J. 1992. “The Living and the Dead in Japanese Popular Religion”. Documento presentado en The Columbia University Modern Japan Seminar.
Sonu, Sunee C. 1994. The Japanese Market for U. S. Tuna Products. Technical Memorandum NOAA-TM-NMFSSWR-029, U. S. Department of Commerce,
National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, National Marine Fisheries Service, Southwest Region, septiembre.
Tobin, Joseph J., ed. 1992. Re-Made in Japan: Everyday Life and Consumer Taste in a Changing Society. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press.
Watanabe, Fumio, ed. 1991. Maguro o Marugoto Ajiwau Hon (The Complete Book of Tuna Tasting). Tokio: Kobunsha.
Waters, Malcolm. 1995. Globalization. Londres; Nueva York: Routledge.
Watson, James L., ed. 1997. Golden Arches East: McDonald’s in East Asia. Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press.
Yoshino, Masuo. 1986. Sushi. Tokio: Gakken.
Zukin, Sharon. 1991. Landscapes of Power. Berkeley: University of California Press.
Stuart Plattner, 105-130. Lanham, MD: Society for Economic Anthropology.
Álvarez, Robert R. Jr. 1994. “Changing Ideology in a Transnational Market: Chile and Chileros in Mexico and the U. S.”. Human Organization 53 (3): 255-262.
—. 1999. “La Maroma, or Chile, Credit, and Chance: An Ethnographic Case of Global Finance and Middlemen Entrepreneurs”. Human Organization 57 (1): 63-73.
—. 2001. “Beyond the Border: Nation-State Encroachment, Nafta, and Offshore Control in the U. S.-Mexican Mango Industry”. Human Organization 60 (2):
121-128.
Appadurai, Arjun, ed. 1986. The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
—. 1990. “Disjuncture and Difference in the Global Cultural Economy”. Public Culture 2 (2): 1-24.
—. 1991. La vida social de las cosas. Perspectivas culturales de las mercancías. México D. F.: Grijalbo.
Bassett, Bernice Claire. 1929. “Entertaining in Japanese Style”. The Ladies’ Home Journal, 1.o de septiembre: 118, 137.
Befu, Harumi. S. f. “Globalization of Japan: Its Implication for the Globalization Model”. Kyoto Bunkyo University. Manuscrito inédito.
Bestor, Theodore C. 1995. What Shape’s Your Seafood In? Food Culture and Trade at the Tsukiji Market. American Seafood Institute Report, septiembre.
—. 1997. “Visible Hands: Auctions and Institutional Integration in the Tsukiji Wholesale Fish Market, Tokyo”. En Networks, Markets, and the Pacific Rim:
Studies in Strategy, editado por Mark Fruin, 154-180. Nueva York: Oxford University Press.
—. 1998. “Making Things Clique: Cartels, Coalitions, and Institutional Structure in the Tsukiji Wholesale Seafood Market”. En Networks, Markets, and the
Pacific Rim: Studies in Strategy, editado por Mark Fruin, 154-180. Nueva York: Oxford University Press.
—. 1999a. “Wholesale Sushi: Culture and Commodity in Tokyo’s Tsukiji Market”. En Theorizing the City: The New Urban Anthropology Reader, editado por Setha M. Low, 201-242. Nuevo Brunswick, NJ: Rutgers University Press.
—. 1999b. “Constructing Sushi: Food Culture, Trade, and Commodification in a Japanese Market”. En Lives in Motion, editado por Susan O. Long, 151-190.
Ithaca, NY: Cornell East Asia Series.
—. 2000. “How Sushi Went Global”. Foreign Policy, noviembre-diciembre: 53-64.
—. S. f. a. “Global Sushi: Commodity, Environment, and Consumption in the Transnational Tuna Trade”. Manuscrito en preparación.
—. S. f. b. “Markets: Anthropological Perspectives”. En International Encyclopedia of the Social and Behavioral Sciences. Londres: Elsevier Science. En
prensa.
—. S. f. c. “The Social Death of Things: Ritual and the Cultural Biography of Seafood”. Manuscrito en preparación.
—. S. f. d. Tokyo’s Marketplace: Culture and Trade in the Tsukiji Wholesale Market. Berkeley: University of California Press. En prensa.
Bourdieu, Pierre. 1984. Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgment of Taste. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press.
Brannen, Mary Yoko. 1992. “‘Bwana Mickey’: Constructing Cultural Consumption at Tokyo Disneyland”. En Re-Made in Japan: Everyday Life and Consumer Taste in a Changing Society, editado por Joseph Tobin, 216-234. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press.
Clark, Gracia. 1994. Onions Are my Husband. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.
Clifford, James. 1997. Routes: Travels and Translation in the Late Twentieth Century. Cambridge: Harvard University Press.
Cohen, Abner. 1969. Custom and Politics in Urban Africa. Berkeley: University of California Press.
Cronon, William. 1991. Nature’s Metropolis: Chicago and the Great West. Nueva York: Norton.
Dannhaeuser, Norbert. 1989. “Marketing in Developing Urban Areas”. En Economic Anthropology, editado por Stuart Plattner, 222-252. Stanford, CA:
Stanford University Press.
Geertz, Clifford. 1979. “Suq: The Bazaar Economy of Sefrou”. En Meaning and Order in Moroccan Society, editado por Clifford Geertz, Hildred Geertz y
Lawrence Rosen, 123-314. Nueva York: Cambridge University Press.
Gereffi, Gary y Miguel Korzeniewicz, eds. 1994. Commodity Chains and Global Capitalism. Westport, CT: Praeger.
Goldfrank, Walter L. 1994. “Fresh Demand: The Consumption of Chilean Produce in the United States”. En Commodity Chains and Global Capitalism, editado por Gary Gereffi y Miguel Korzeniewicz, 267-279. Westport, CT: Praeger.
Goody, Jack. 1982. Cooking, Cuisine and Class: A Study in Comparative Sociology. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
Hannerz, Ulf. 1980. Exploring the City. Nueva York: Columbia University Press.
—. 1996a. “The Cultural Role of World Cities”. En Transnational Connections, 127-139. Londres; Nueva York: Routledge.
—. 1996b. Transnational Connections. Londres; Nueva York: Routledge.
Hansen, Karen Tranberg y Carter A. Roeber, eds. 1999. “Rationale, Romance, and Third World Cities”. Número especial: City and Society 11 (1-2).
Hendry, Joy. 1990. “Humidity, Hygiene, or Ritual Care: Some Thoughts on Wrapping as a Social Phenomenon”. En Unwrapping Japan, editado por Eyal Ben-
Ari, Brian Moeran y James Valentine, 18-35. Manchester: Manchester University Press.
Honda, Yukiko. 1997. Sushi Neta Zukan (The Illustrated Book of Sushi Toppings). Tokio: Shogakkan.
Hopgood, James F. 1998. “Another Japanese Version: An American Actor in Japanese Hands”. En The Social Construction of Race and Ethnicity in the United
States, editado por Joan Ferrante y Prince Brown, Jr., 470-477. Nueva York: Longman.
Japón. 1988-2000. Japan Statistical Yearbook. Tokio: Office of the Prime Minister.
Kemf, Elizabeth, Michael Sutton y Alison Wilson. 1996. Wanted Alive: Marine Fishes in the Wild. Gland: WWF.
Kopytoff, Igor. 1986. “The Cultural Biography of Things: Commoditization as Process”. En The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective,
editado por Arjun Appadurai, 64-91. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
LaFeber, Walter. 1999. Michael Jordan and the New Global Capitalism. Nueva York: Norton.
Leslie, Deborah y Suzanne Reimer. 1999. “Spatializing Commodity Chains”. Progress in Human Geography 23 (3): 401-420.
Marcus, George E. 1998. Ethnography through Thick and Thin. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press.
Mazzarella, William. 1999. “Mobile on the Spot: Negotiating ‘the Local’ in Contemporary Indian Advertising”. Documento presentado en el Departamento de Antropología, Cambridge, MA, Harvard University, noviembre.
Mintz, Sidney. 1985. Sweetness and Power: The Place of Sugar in Modern History. Nueva York: Viking Penguin.
—. 1997. “Swallowing Modernity”. En Golden Arches East: McDonald’s in East Asia, editado por James L. Watson, 183-200. Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press.
National Research Council. 1994. An Assessment of Atlantic Bluefin Tuna. Washington D. C.: National Academy Press.
Ohnuki-Tierney, Emiko. 1990. “The Ambivalent Self of the Contemporary Japanese”. Cultural Anthropology 5 (2): 197-216.
—. 1997. “McDonald’s in Japan: Changing Manners and Etiquette”. En Golden Arches East: McDonald’s in East Asia, editado por James L. Watson, 161-182.
Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press.
Õmae, Kinjiro y Yuzuru Tachibana. 1981. The Book of Sushi. Tokio; Nueva York: Kodansha International.
Peterson, Susan B. 1973. “Decisions in a Market: A Study of the Honolulu Fish Auction”. Disertación de doctorado, University of Hawaii, Honolulu.
Plattner, Stuart, ed. 1985. Markets and Marketing. Monographs in Economic Anthropology 4. Lanham, MD: Society for Economic Anthropology.
—. 1989. Economic Anthropology. Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press.
Rakugo, Shin’ichi. 1990. “Sushidane Saijiki (Annual Chronicle of Sushi Toppings)”. Taiyo: Tokushu—ushi Dokuhon (Número especial de Taiyo: The Sushi Reader) 343: 38-51.
Raz, Aviad E. 1999. “Riding the Black Ship: Japan and Tokyo Disneyland”. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Asia Center.
Redfield, Robert y Milton Singer. 1954. “The Cultural Role of Cities”. Economic Development and Cultural Change 3 (octubre): 53-77.
Roseberry, William. 1996. “The Rise of Yuppie Coffees and the Reimagination of Class in the United States”. American Anthropologist 98 (4): 762-775.
Safina, Carl. 1993. “Bluefin Tuna in the West Atlantic: Negligent Management and the Making of an Endangered Species”. Conservation Biology 7 (2): 229-234.
—. 1995. “The World’s Imperiled Fish”. Scientific American 273 (5): 30-37.
Skinner, G. William. 1964. “Marketing and Social Structure in Rural China, Part I”. Journal of Asian Studies 24 (1): 3-43.
—. 1965. “Marketing and Social Structure in Rural China, Part II”. Journal of Asian Studies 24 (2): 195-228.
—, ed. 1974. The City in Late Imperial China. Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press.
Smith, Robert J. 1992. “The Living and the Dead in Japanese Popular Religion”. Documento presentado en The Columbia University Modern Japan Seminar.
Sonu, Sunee C. 1994. The Japanese Market for U. S. Tuna Products. Technical Memorandum NOAA-TM-NMFSSWR-029, U. S. Department of Commerce,
National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, National Marine Fisheries Service, Southwest Region, septiembre.
Tobin, Joseph J., ed. 1992. Re-Made in Japan: Everyday Life and Consumer Taste in a Changing Society. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press.
Watanabe, Fumio, ed. 1991. Maguro o Marugoto Ajiwau Hon (The Complete Book of Tuna Tasting). Tokio: Kobunsha.
Waters, Malcolm. 1995. Globalization. Londres; Nueva York: Routledge.
Watson, James L., ed. 1997. Golden Arches East: McDonald’s in East Asia. Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press.
Yoshino, Masuo. 1986. Sushi. Tokio: Gakken.
Zukin, Sharon. 1991. Landscapes of Power. Berkeley: University of California Press.
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2014-12-09
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Bestor, T. C. (2014). El sushi en una economía de oferta: mercancía, mercado y la ciudad global. Revista Colombiana De Antropología, 50(2), 171–214. Recuperado a partir de https://revistas.icanh.gov.co/index.php/rca/article/view/253
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